Sashiko Fundamentals and Beyond Digital Workshop

Get the inside scoop on everything you need to start stitching sashiko like a pro. We'll walk you through choosing the right needles, ring thimble, marking tools, and thread options.

The secret to clean, professional-looking sashiko? It all starts with accurate grid work. We'll teach you how to read the charts in our book to determine exactly which grid you need, and show you real examples so you can see how grid size dramatically affects the final look of your stitching.

We'll show you how to measure out the right amount, and teach you the critical step that trips up beginners: threading the loop end through the needle, not one of the cut ends. Yes, we're going to make you replay that part! We'll also demonstrate how to tie a needle knot at the tail—a technique that creates a nice secure knot to keep your thread from pulling through the fabric.

Unshin is a Japanese term meaning "handling of the needle". In this section we'll teach you the proper three-point brace that keeps your needle secure in the palm thimble while you work. Learn the distinctive sashiko running stitch motion: you're not stabbing or pulling, you're hand-tensioning the fabric and loading it onto the needle with a subtle rocking motion.

Decode those stitch charts! Learn how blue lines show your grid and black lines show stitches on fabric. Master the working order: horizontals first, verticals second, then diagonals both ways. Discover how one change creates totally different patterns—offset crosses, rice stitch, or iconic persimmon flower. Understand "stacked" vs "offset" rows and why basic "over one, under one" stitching creates endless variations.

Introduce your lesson with an optional, short summary. You can edit this excerpt in lesson settings.

Moyouzashi follows different rules: rectangular 1:2 grids (or square 1:1 for some patterns) and point-to-point stitching with consistent stitch counts. No "over one, under one"—instead, maintain your chosen count (5 or 7 stitches) from point A to point B. Learn to identify grid types, determine logical stitch order, and master foundational diamonds before progressing to woven bamboo and complex curves.

Master curves with key techniques: shared center stitches worked straight up/down, matching placement across rows, perpendicular stitches on curves, nearly horizontal top stitches. Use curve templates with hash marks for accuracy. Learn specific working orders for ocean waves, flowing grasses, and iconic shippo tsunagi. Never stitch through the same hole, tiny negative spaces create perfect-looking corners while protecting fabric.

Use moyouzashi running stitch for boro patchwork and creative freedom. Secure patches with offset "brick-stacking" lines that overlap slightly—no appliqué needed, edges stay fray-resistant for years. Traditional rules relax: stitches can cross for functional work. Use household objects as curve templates. Perfect for pictorial work—cranes, fans, chrysanthemums, abstract art. Draw guidelines or work freehand!

Master triangle-based grids that create stunning basket-weave patterns. Learn the minimal-line drawing trick: "up one on sides, over two on top/bottom" for diagonals, then add verticals to form hexagons. Stitch in order: horizontal offset rows (skip every other!), then diagonal fills both directions. Keep stitches slightly short of lines—negative space creates mesmerizing spirals within the weave. Perfect reversible patch stitch!

Transform square grids into triangular isometric grids using corner-to-corner diagonals. Master "draw two, skip two" rhythm for armor plates and geometric patterns. All lines span exactly two triangles. Alternate stacked and offset rows. Pro tip: Draw every line before stitching—don't work from memory! Practice on isometric grid paper. Scale up for gorgeous quilting or down for intricate detail work.